By Randi Locke
In 2021 Black Americans contributed 6.6 billion dollars to the beauty industry according to the Mckinelys Institute for black economic mobility. Aside from financial contributions black people have always played a major role in the beauty industry. From the first hair extensions being traced back to ancient Egypt, to pioneers in beauty invention like Madam CJ Walker who not only invented the pomade and miracle hair growth, but the pressing comb; to Marjorie Joyner who invented the permanent wave machine. Despite black people’s contributions, they only represent 12.4% of the market. Thankfully black cosmetic chemists continue to push the boundaries of the beauty industry. Whether it is making room for black people in predominately white spaces, or creating their own avenue, black chemists continue to make strides in the beauty industry. Here are a few of the amazing cosmetic chemists making changes in the industry.
Balanda Atis
This woman is the reason that makeup companies like L’Oreal have expanded their foundation shades. Balanda Atis received her bachelor’s in biology from Rutgers University in 1996. Atis joined L’Oreal after completing her master’s in Cosmetic Science at Farleigh Dickinson University. She started out working in the mascara department, but she eventually transferred to foundation. Though L’Oreal began rolling out more foundation shades, Atis noticed that they were not right. In 2006, she decided to bring the issue to the head of the L’Oreal makeup division. In turn, they suggested that she attempt to fix the issue herself. Atis along with two other scientists traversed the country for years gathering data on different skin tones. Armed with this research Atis and her team discovered that by adding ultramarine blue to the foundation mix they can create deeper tones without making the skin look flat. Thanks to this discovery, L’Oreal launched 30 new shades. This led to the development of L’Oreal’s multicultural lab with Atis as the lead chemist. One of the lab’s most notable accomplishments is the creation of Lancome Teint Iodle shade 555 for spokesmodel Lupita Nyong’o.
Erica Douglas
Also known as Sister Scientist, Erica Douglas built her brand off of educating black people about what is in their hair products. She has a bachelor’s Degree in chemical engineering from Stanford University. She was a National Institute of Health Research Fellow at North Western University. There she focused on research in Bio-Chemistry, Molecular, and Cell Biology. She became Director of Research and Development for ORS before she was 30 years old. Her work at ORS helped create new brands like ORS Olive Oil, HAIRepair, and Curls Unleased. Her work with ORS has earned her accolades like the Black Beauty Award from Essence Magazine. Though she loved her work at ORS, she noticed that consumers were not learning the truth about the ingredients in their hair products. Tired of seeing all the misinformation, she created her platform, Sister Scientist. She uses her platform to not only educate consumers but to encourage young black people to get into STEM careers. In 2014, she founded mSEED. A company that assists entrepreneurs with product development, manufacturing, and brand growth.
Esther Olu
From amassing a large following on tik tok, to sharing advice on skin care, Esther Olu is a force to be reckoned with. She created her platform The Melanin Chemist while she was finishing her Masters degree in Cosmetic Chemistry. Olu combined her knowledge in cosmetic chemistry with her esthetician license to teach viewers how to take better care of their skin. She also calls out false advertising made by popular skin care brands. Olu has been featured in prominent magazines like Vogue Scandinavia, The Wall Street Journal, and the Times UK.
Javon Ford
Javon Ford became famous on Tik Tok for dispelling harmful skin care rhetoric being shared. After he received his Bachelors in Chemistry from Howard University in 2016, he decided to start Eclat Naturals. The company lasted for three years before they closed. Ford then took on contract manufacturing for three more years before getting laid off. During the pandemic Javon began to go viral for his videos on cosmetic science. Dispelling myths about ingredients like silicones. After gaining a mass following Javon tried his hand at a makeup line again. This time creating a color changing cheek stain that not only works with all skin tones, but has a castor oil base. The blush currently comes in three shades: Georgia Peach, Black Berry, and Cherry Pie.
Spellman College
What started as a credential course for non-members, became a full program. The program became available for Spellman Students last fall. This makes Spellman College the first HBCU to offer a cosmetic science program. For those who do not attend Spellman College, the Cosmetic Certificate Program is still available.
